Discovering Proxy Wines
Discovering Proxy Wines
Proxy wines seems to be gaining more traction and wider recognition. Even though the category is fairly new as a term, the techniquesand processes used for making proxy wines are based on ancient fermenting methods that date back millennia. To provide a better understanding of proxy wines, this text draws on insights from leading wine critics in the Copenhagen food scene and pioneers within the non-alcoholic space in Berlin.
What is a Proxy Wine?
A loved one goes by many names—‘proxy wine, ’‘proxies,’ ‘specialty beverage,’ ‘fermented drinks,’ or even the French ‘boissons gastronomiques.’
These are some of the terms used to define the new, flourishing category within high-end drinks for gastronomy. What’s common among all those mentioned above is that they fall under a sub-category of non-alcoholic beverages. In a broader context, the word proxy means a ‘substitute’ or ‘stand-in’ for something. However, let’s explore what experts on the topic have to say.
Søren Frank, who has worked at the Danish newspaper Berlingske since 1996 as a wine critic, and has authored 10 books on wine and food, explores this topic in a review. He describes it as follows: ‘Unlike non-alcoholic wine, which is regular wine with the alcohol technically removed, proxy wines are based on, for example, tea, fruit juice, or kombucha’ (Frank, 2024, January 21).
Further, Frank (2024) adds, “Typically with some form of fermentation involved to match the depthand complexity known from the world of wine.” In addition to the Danish wine critic’s concise explanation of “proxy wine,” Max and Jennifer from The Mindful Drinking Club from Berlin also share their insights on the term. In 2021, they founded a curated boutique store, online shop, and distribution company in Germany, quickly establishing themselves as pioneers in the non-alcoholic market, particularly in proxy wines.“Proxies are multilayered compositions of every imaginable ingredient, sometimes produced using different fermentation methods. Kombucha, kvass or water kefir, juices from fruits or vegetables, teas, hydrolates or infusions of herbs, flowers and spicescan be the basis or ingredients of these exciting cuvées” (mindfuldrinking.club).
Another Danish wine and food critic named Ole Troelsø also gives his short explanation on the term proxy wine ina review made in 2024. Ole Troelsø is the gastronomy editor at the Danish newspaper Børsen, where he has reviewed over 1,000 restaurants since 2001. “The English term ‘proxy wine’ refers to non-alcoholic beverages designed to mimic the flavor characteristics of traditional wine but are not necessarily made from grapes.” (Troelsø, 2024,September 27).”
"it seems to me that only imagination sets the limits for additions and flavor variations.’’
In other words, proxy wine is a broad term that encompasses a variety of products, as Thomas Ilkjær discusses in his review published in the Danish newspaper Politiken on October 2, 2024. With two decades of experience as a wine critic and as the founder of Vinakademiet, the most renowned wineschool in Denmark, Thomas offers valuable insights into this category. He states, “Proxy wine is a broad category of very diverse products, many of which have an alcohol level of no more than 0.5 percent” (Ilkjær, 2024). He further notes, “It seems to me that only imagination sets the limits for additions and flavor variations. Ingredients such as juniper, hibiscus, lemon juice, spruce, elderberries, jasmine, quince, thyme, chokeberries, and lemongrass can all be used.”
What is the purpose of a proxy wine?
To understand the rising demand for proxy wine and its purpose, we must first examine the current selection of non-alcoholic wine alternatives, commonly referred to as dealcoholized wines. Once again, let’s hear what our experts have to say about this. Dealcoholized wines are typically produced using methods such as “reverse osmosis” over a membrane or vacuum distillation, which enable the removal of alcohol at relatively low temperatures (Ilkjær, 2024).According to Ilkjær (2024), one of the challenges when pairing dealcoholized wines with gastronomy is their tendency to be very sweet and fruit-driven, often containing about 40-70 grams of sugar per liter. He also notes that dealcoholized wines lack“vinosity,” which poses a problem when they are intended to replace traditional wine. This deficiency arises because the sugar compensates for the body that alcohol typically provides.
Furthermore, dealcoholized wines are often made from low-quality grape material, and the origins of the grapes are usually not disclosed (Ilkjær, 2024).In contrast, Ilkjær (2024) argues that the primary advantage of proxy wines over dealcoholized wines is that they tend to be less sweet, with better-integrated acidity and a far more complex and individual. In conclusion, there is a clear demand for a high-quality non-alcoholic alternative that complements gastronomy without compromising taste and experience—an unmet need that dealcoholized wine has failed to fulfill.
Frank (2024) emphasizes this by noting, “This is a category that has emerged in higher-end restaurants, where there is a need to offer alcohol-free alternatives to wine of a certain quality.”
One of the challenges when pairing dealcoholized wines with gastronomy is their tendency to be very sweet and fruit-driven.’’
While the term “proxy” suggests a stand-in or substitute, this new category is designed to capture the experience of fine wines without attempting to replicate them, thereby addressing a gap in the gastronomy sector (Mindful Drinking Club). We are now witnessing proxy wines moving from high-end restaurants to homes, social events, and other establishments seeking to provide a more diverse and inclusive non-alcoholic selection.
Reference list:
- Thomas Ilkjær. Politiken 2. oktober 2024.Udviklingen for alkoholfri vin imponerer ikke, men der er tilgengæld en ny fræk dreng i klassen.
- Søren Frank. Berlingske 21. januar 2024. Denne nye drik trender over hele kloden og smager som et dyrt spaophold.
- Ole Troelsø. Børsen 27. september 2024. Alkoholfri bobler, der smager en smule af vin.The Mindful Drinking Club, 21. oktober 2024.
- Proxies and Wine Alternatives. Link: https://mindfuldrinking.club/wine-proxies